From the Vault
Writings from my travels in Europe, my jewelry life while living in NYC - and more…
My Top 5 Favorite Gems at Sotheby’s Important Jewel Sale
During my time living in NYC, I went to many an auction preview, in particular, jewelry auctions. It was the perfect opportunity to get up close and personal with some of the most amazing gems you could imagine - everything from ancient Roman jewelry, to vintage Cartier, and so much more! I took lots of notes and lots of photos on these outings and will be sharing my favorite pieces in blogs to come. This post is about my visit to Sotheby’s Important Jewel Sale, on a warm September day back in 2016. Enjoy!
September brings the beginning of the all-important jewelry auctions in New York - so I thought I better get started by heading to Sotheby's yesterday for a bit of gem-therapy! Going to the preview during the week, rather than the more crowded weekend, provided me with ample room at the jewelry counters to take my time and really enjoy the pieces I came to see. I was not disappointed!
Vintage Bulgari Brooch
The first jewel I looked at and my favorite of the sale was this stunning emerald, ruby, pink sapphire and diamond brooch by Bulgari. A commission piece from 1967, this large scale brooch features a central cabochon emerald of exquisite color with gem-set petals radiating out from it in a life-like flower design - almost giving the feeling that the blossom was caught in a light breeze. Bulgari’s use of vibrant colored gems is right on point for the famed Roman jewelry house. They were a favorite of Elizabeth Taylor’s, particularly in the 1960’s when she and Richard Burton were in Italy, during the lengthy filming of Cleopatra. I can absolutely imagine Taylor wearing this gorgeous gem back in the day!
Cartier Art Deco Jabot Pin
Next up - this elegant carved sapphire and old cut diamond jabot pin by Cartier, circa 1930. The ultimate in Art Deco chic, jabots were worn in many fashionable ways, including on a ladies lapel, the shoulder of a dress, on cloche style hats and even on handbags. The two-piece brooch, usually vertical in design, has a long pin that connects the two elements of the jewel, with the smaller or lower piece acting as the clasp by clicking on or screwing onto the pin. This example uses carved sapphires, an Indian inspiration, used by the finest jewelry houses of the time, in particular, Cartier.
Vintage Diamond Ring by Dinh Van
I know it's quite simple but I think this ring is everything! The wide gold band being in the shape of a square, perfectly framed the app. 3.25ct. Old European cut diamond, without any unnecessary embellishments. A genius design by Jean Dinh Van, who started working for Cartier in the mid 1960's. Inspired by the Bauhaus, he appreciated minimalist designs and pieces that were not recognized as being from a particular era or belonging to a specific gender. I quietly covet this ring.
Vintage David Webb Bracelet
What's an important jewelry auction without a David Webb animal bracelet? By the early 1960's, Webb's menagerie of animal bangles were gracing the wrists of the most discerning women. Anyone who was anyone needed to have one! Ranging from lions, tigers and panthers to horses, giraffes, zebras and more - they were and still are the iconic Webb piece that everyone wants to own. This charmer is a black enamel and gold elephant with ruby set eyes, diamond tusks and an emerald head ornament. Definitely fun to try on!
Art Deco Marcus & Co. Necklace
Lastly, I swooned over this gorgeous Art Deco pendant necklace by the illustrious New York jeweler Marcus & Co. Dating to around 1930, the carved jade pendant with diamond set bail, suspended from a slim pearl necklace epitomized the period with its exotic elegance and bold color. The quite hefty pendant carved with ru-yi symbols, translating to "as you wish" or "as desired”, further signified the era of the decadent 1920's and 30's. I could almost feel the energy of the times and the jazz music wafting in the air, as I held it. Fabulous!
All in all, a fabulous jewelry day at Sotheby’s - filled with beauty, history, color and deep satisfaction!
Even though this post is about an auction in the past - the beauty of the pieces, the information about them, and my passion for sharing it all, is still very relevant :) I hope you agree!
Meanwhile, check out this link to a recent jewelry auction at Sotheby’s London, titled “Small Wonders: Early Gems and Jewels”
-Wendy (aka: gemsatourguide)
-All images are my own