The perfect summer jewel…

Florence Koehler brooch, ca. 1905

Lovely as a summer’s day! This beautiful sapphire, emerald & pearl brooch by American jeweler Florence Koehler, epitomizes the Arts & Crafts period at the end of the late 19th c. - early 20th c. A movement in which Florence Koehler was well known and admired for with her exquisite designs and craftsmanship. A founding member of the Arts & Crafts movement in Chicago, she also worked in pottery, painting and even interior design. Florence studied enamelwork and jewelry in London in 1898 with Alexander Fisher and lived in London until 1912 becoming a part of the vibrant art community there. She then moved to Paris where she stayed for many years, eventually moving to Rome in the 1930’s. She was well acquainted with the artists & writers of the time, including the likes of Henry James and Henri Matisse. Although she spent time in Chicago, she lived in Europe for the majority of her life. A strong and independent woman most certainly ahead of her time! Her jewelry oftentimes referenced historical periods, in particular, the Renaissance, which you can see in this brooch with its lovely enamelwork and form.

A commission for a prominent lady in Chicago…

The brooch is one element in a three piece suite that was commissioned by Emily Crane Chadbourne, daughter of Chicago industrialist Richard T. Crane and a close friend of Florence’s. The set also includes a beautiful hair comb and a four strand pearl necklace that could be worn simply as a pearl necklace or worn with the brooch, which turned into a pendant once the pin mechanism was removed. It was very common for jewelry to be made with convertible elements at that time. Women in society often changed their attire 2-3 times a day (or more!) depending on what their activities and social events were - so a lovely pin worn on a day dress could turn into a more dramatic pearl and gem-set necklace for evening wear. Brilliant, when you think about it!

Color, Design, A summer day unfolding…

I adore the lush blues and greens of this piece, the intertwining vine motif, the detailed enamel work depicting leaves and decorative border, and the clusters of small white pearls, representing flowers or perhaps grapes - a veritable garden! I happened to see this brooch in the late afternoon one day, at the Met Museum, when the sun was streaming through the glass ceiling of the American Wing's Sculpture Court and illuminating all the gems in its path. Note the reflection of the glass ceiling in the central sapphire. I cannot think of a gem that more embodies the feeling of summer than this delightful brooch. Thank you Florence!

To see the full set and learn a bit more about Florence Koehler, click here - Met Museum.

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The Met Museum in NYC hosts a wide range of beautiful and historic jewelry, however, it is spread across the museum depending on what era of art it pertains to. In 2018, the museum published a book about their collection, Jewelry - The Body Transformed which features everything from ancient Egyptian jewelry to pieces by French designer Lalique, as well as more modern works by Art Smith and Alexander Calder. A wonderful book with gorgeous images and informative text on the history of jewelry and how it’s been worn. I highly recommend it!

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To learn more about the Arts & Crafts period of design read this illuminating piece by the Antique Jewelry University - a division of Lang Antiques in San Francisco. The AJU is a wonderful place to learn about all periods and forms of antique jewelry!

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-Above image by W. Smith